| Tips & Tricks |
 |
| |
 |
| |
 |
| |
 |
| |
 |
| |
 |
| |
 |
| |
 |
| |
 |
| |
 |
| |
 |
| |
 |
| |
 |
| |
 |
| |
 |
| |
 |
We're looking for more tips and tricks to help other pet parents. We need tips and/or suggestions,
products and links, valuable information like research links for any of our website information, or
anything you think we can use. Please send any information to contact@ibdkitties.net and include
your name, your cat's name, an email address where you can be reached and the information or
request for information.
products and links, valuable information like research links for any of our website information, or
anything you think we can use. Please send any information to contact@ibdkitties.net and include
your name, your cat's name, an email address where you can be reached and the information or
request for information.
Food Tips:
Tip #1: In order to compare how much protein, carbohydrate, fiber, or fat is in a canned food vs dry,
you need to compare them on an equal basis, excluding the water content. Converting to dry matter
basis makes it easy.
Here's a formula to do it: nutrient percent (crude protein, fat, fiber or carbs) divided by the reciprocal of
moisture content. (Reciprocal of moisture content is simply 100 - moisture content.)
For example, if a can lists crude protein of 12%, and moisture of 78%, to figure the "actual" amount of
protein in the food: divide the crude protein (12) by the reciprocal of water content (100-78=22). 12
divided by 22 = .545. The actual protein content is almost 55%, a lot more than it would appear without
converting to a dry matter basis.
*You need to convert both canned food and kibble to dry matter to accurately compare/contrast
nutrient content.
Tip #2: Use ceramic bowls or better yet, stainless steel bowls to feed your cat. Plastic bowls can harbor
germs and can also cause skin lesions and feline acne on your cats' face because of oily residue leftover
from the food.
Tip #1: In order to compare how much protein, carbohydrate, fiber, or fat is in a canned food vs dry,
you need to compare them on an equal basis, excluding the water content. Converting to dry matter
basis makes it easy.
Here's a formula to do it: nutrient percent (crude protein, fat, fiber or carbs) divided by the reciprocal of
moisture content. (Reciprocal of moisture content is simply 100 - moisture content.)
For example, if a can lists crude protein of 12%, and moisture of 78%, to figure the "actual" amount of
protein in the food: divide the crude protein (12) by the reciprocal of water content (100-78=22). 12
divided by 22 = .545. The actual protein content is almost 55%, a lot more than it would appear without
converting to a dry matter basis.
*You need to convert both canned food and kibble to dry matter to accurately compare/contrast
nutrient content.
Tip #2: Use ceramic bowls or better yet, stainless steel bowls to feed your cat. Plastic bowls can harbor
germs and can also cause skin lesions and feline acne on your cats' face because of oily residue leftover
from the food.
Tip #3: When starting your cat on frozen raw food, try this: Thaw the food overnight in the refrigerator, or leave out for about 15
minutes at room temperature. If your cat is reluctant to eat raw at first, try heating in a skillet at very low heat for a little under a
minute on each side. Just enough to get the scent of meat and the juices going, not to cook it. Eventually you won't have to do this but
it can definitely work when introducing. NEVER use a Teflon skillet or frying pan, it's toxic to animals. Use a stainless steel or
cast iron skillet. If you don't have one initially try microwaving for just 5 seconds to take some of the chill off, try to stick to 5 seconds.
It can be dangerous to microwave raw food, because the bone fragments can splinter and it also changes the nutritional balance. But
anything less than 40 seconds is safe and 5 seconds is usually the magic number. Don't do this for very long, just a few days to get the
cat to start eating it. But heating with a skillet is much safer and keeps the nutrients much better. Warming the food this way
prevents you from actually cooking the food, as the whole purpose of feeding raw is to preserve the precious enzymes that are
missing from over cooked and processed commercial foods.
Tip #4: If you need to defrost some raw food quickly, put it in a Ziploc plastic baggy and fill with warm to hot water. Seal it and lay it
in the sink for approximately 4-5 minutes. Pour out the water and serve!
Tip #5: To help lower phosphorus levels for a cat with renal insufficiency or kidney disease, instead of buying low protein foods, use
cooked egg white! This information is from Dr. Hodgkins' book. Cooked egg white is high in quality protein and contains no phosphate.
What you do is add cooked egg white (from a hard- boiled egg with the yolk removed) to wet cat food by chopping it up and mixing it
into the food. What it does is reduce the amount of wet cat food you feed by adding enough quality protein from the cooked egg white,
which has no phosphorus in it, to make up the difference in quantity, i.e. diluting the phosphorus while still providing the cat with top
quality protein. Vets are starting to go a different way than recommending a lot protein diet as that's not suitable for a carnivore,
they need the protein! This is a good alternative to feeding something other than prescription diets.
Tip #6: A lot of cats won’t eat chunky or shredded food. They love those particular brands yet they only lick up the gravy and leave
the food part. Try using a blender or food processor. Simply put the whole can of food along with the gravy in the processor and it
makes a nice pate. You can also try using any leftover and mix it with a little bit of another brand they like and again blend it or put it
in the food process. This really opens up food options!
Natural Remedies:
Tip #1: When giving slippery elm bark for nausea, take a tablespoon of hot water and mix it with about 1/2 capsule of SEB powder.
As it starts to cool, it will thicken. Sometimes you can add more powder and sometimes more water to get it to a thin enough
consistency that you can fill a syringe. The easiest syringe to use is a 3ml, and fill completely. Then insert the syringe in the back
corner of your cat's mouth and let them drink it down. Just be sure to make it as thick as possible as it helps coat the lining of the GI
tract, similar to Pepto Bismol. They call it a "liquid band aid". Slippery elm should be given at least two hours away from any other
medications or supplements. 30 minutes isn't long enough for the mucilagenous coating in the digestive tract to dilute enough to let
absorption take place, mostly in the intestines. Many holistic vets believe that when given with a meal, it can inhibit the absorption of
nutrients from the food.
Tip #2: For diarrhea or constipation, add a teaspoon of all natural canned pumpkin to your cat's meal. Any canned pumpkin will do
but Farmer's Market Organic is the best one and seems to be the most tasty. Make sure it's the 100% pumpkin and not the pie
filling. It works like magic. Canned pumpkin is only good for 3 days in frig. Place the remainder in ice cube trays and freeze. Then
place them in baggies and defrost as needed or freeze 3 days worth at a time.
Tip #3: During allergy season your kitty can pick up pollen on their fur that makes them more sensitive. They'll sneeze, get stuffy
and not eat as well. A simple solution is to rub them with an electrostatic dust cloth like Swiffer or Pledge, no chemicals on it, it just
collects whatever particles are on their fur so they don't ingest it while grooming. It's easy to do and it just feels like they're being
petted or getting a rub down. You can also use kitty wipes like Allerwipes, which are on the supplements page. They remove pollen
and dander and make your cat's fur soft and fluffy. Any kitty wipe will do, just make sure they are non toxic and have no ingredients
you think would be harmful to an IBD kitty.
Tip #4: When first giving your cat salmon, sardine and/or anchovy oil (or any fish oil), always keep it refrigerated and never let it
get to room temp as it easily turns rancid. As you know, cats are sneaky, finicky, picky, little buggers. So not all of them will like it
unfortunately. Like everything else with them, it has to occasionally be eased into their diet. Try sneaking a really tiny drop in their
food at first and see if they'll eat it. Or put a tiny bit on your finger and then rub it on their paw pads. They absolutely hate anything
on their paws and will have no choice but to lick it up! They may get your floor a little oily in the process though so keep a towel
handy. You can put some on your finger and rub it on their lower lip so they lick it up. Also, try taking a dehydrated or freeze dried
treat and dipping it in the oil first. Keep trying, don't give up. These oils are a great source of Omega 3's and anti-inflammatories.
Tip #5: Use aloe vera for digestive issues instead of pepcid or other antacids. It works great for vomiting or inflammation, but be
careful not to use too much, it can cause diarrhea. Give it either straight in a syringe or mixed with something else like food, works
best if given about 30 minutes before eating. It can be added to their water as it has no taste at all, but make sure it doesn’t deter
them from drinking. If so, give it in the syringe or food. Take one teaspoon of the aloe and dilute it with equal parts water. So 1 tsp.
aloe, 1 tsp water. And mix it. It’s fine to do that about 2-3 times daily but less if there’s not a lot of stomach upset. Or get your vet’s
advice on how much to give. It must be 100% Pure distilled Aloe Vera, nothing else added. You can also put some in a spray bottle
and give their coat a nice, soft, healing glow. Soothing for dry skin and dull fur. Look for George's Aloe Vera from Warran Labs on this
page: http://ibdkitties.net/Antiinflammatories.html.
Tip #6: For UTIs, bladder and other urinary problems, use NOW Foods brand D-Mannose powder. I recommend this brand
because it's 100% pure D-Mannose, vegetarian and no fillers. Using a tiny measuring spoon, measure 1/8th of the powder and use
equal parts water, if not a little bit more. Can be added to food, or syringed into the mouth. This product works because it naturally
helps by sticking to "undesirable" foreign substances, preventing them from sticking to the lining of the bladder. D-Mannose can be
found on this page: http://ibdkitties.net/Antiinflammatories.html. And the measuring spoons I use are Amco Measuring Spoons
which are found on this page: http://ibdkitties.net/Helpfultools.html. There are no measurements on the spoons but someone
figured them out to be: 1/8th, 1/16th, 1/32th and 1/64th.
Medical:
Tip #1: When giving B12 or other injections, if you set them up for the shot by coaxing them down, doing some huggin' and lovin',
"tent" the skin on the back of the neck and plunge. Then immediately stick a favored treat under their nose while rubbing the
injection area to confuse the sensations. They don't really notice, nor dread the shots.
Tip #2: When you have a large prescription bottle of B12 (100 mls) and want to use extra "light-blocking" precautions, take an
empty plastic container of Oxy-Clean powdered laundry additive and put the bottle in there, cover and all, before putting it in the
fridge. It fits perfect and doesn't take up much room. A smaller B12 bottle can be inserted into a regular empty prescription pill bottle.
Tip #3: When giving pills, empty gel caps can be used to mask the taste, combine several medications in one pilling (as long as they
are safe to give together), and remove sharp edges from cut pills. If your local pharmacy doesn't have them, they can be bought
online from capsuline.com, iherb.com, and other retailers. For cats, use size 3,4, or 5. (Size three is the largest.) Simply put the pills
in the capsule and administer (using a pill gun is easiest). Always follow with a water chaser (3-5ml) to ensure the capsule gets into
the stomach and reduce the chance of esophageal irritation.
Tip #4: Instead of giving medications in Pill Pockets, which contain a lot of gluten, use a dehydrated raw food treat like Wholelife
Chicken or turkey. Soak the treat in a little water until it's saturated, insert the medication and make a meatball out of it. This brand
of treats is a big hit with a lot of cats! If you want to use these treats to give pills but they can still smell the pill inside the treat, put a
little bit of non-fat cottage cheese on the outside of the treat after inserting the pill. The cheesy smell will help block the smell of the
medication and your pet will get an extra flavor from the treat!
Tip #5: When pilling your cat, use a pill gun and dip the rubber-tipped end in some low-fat cottage cheese. That way when you pop
the pill in your cat's mouth, it'll be slippery and just fly down his/her throat. Doesn't stick to their tongue and they like the taste.
Tip #6: When giving a 5 mg dose of Prilosec to your cat, take a 20 mg capsule, empty and split it into 4 little piles, putting each little
pile into an empty #3 capsule. Using a dark colored dish for this really helps to see the beads. You can use a small perfume funnel for
this, a link for those are listed on the medications page under supplies. Breaking into a delayed release enteric coated tablet in order
to split it can be dangerous because you aren't giving the same dose each time. This way each little bead in the capsule is enteric
coated so there is no risk of putting too much raw medicine in their tummy at once.
Tip #7: If your kitty is super hard to pill or refuses to eat anything added to their food and they are not eating well at all, your vet
can give them a taurine shot that lasts up to a month. Taurine is a vital nutrient for cats and they cannot do without it. It also helps if
you’re going away somewhere and pet sitters are caring for them, it’s one less thing for them to worry about. If your cat is on the
medication ursodiol, you should supplement with 250-500mg per day due to increased urinary losses of taurine. There's a possibility
that chronic use of Ursodiol in cats may deplete the body of taurine.
Other Useful Tips:
Tip #1: Inappropriate elimination and incontinence is often a big problem in kitties with IBD and other illnesses that are treated
with prolonged steroid use. When all else fails to fix the problem try using kitty diapers that will catch urine but let the cat poop in the
litter box normally. To keep them clean, try taking them to a groomer every other month for a sanitary groom. In between those
grooming sessions, wipe kitty's butt down with a damp wash cloth every time you change their diaper (could be two or three times a
day). Only use diapers that are made of cotton fabric and are completely machine washable. You can also put a half an incontinence
pad in the diaper to absorb the urine.
There are companies that make diapers specifically for pets with these issues, here's an example of one:
www.castlepaws.net/studpants.html. This particular company offers various sizes of diapers, has a sizing chart on her site, as well as
instructions for measuring your kitty to determine what size they are - and they do also special orders. Try doing a google search for
cloth pet diapers or even check places like Ebay for other companies.
Tip #2: A list of kitty household "must haves": These are for emergencies, illness, stress, injuries, etc.
Everyone should have a good set of nail clippers and quick-stop, or another type of styptic powder or gel to stop toenail bleeding.
Several pairs of gloves - preferably non latex - you can have a box handy, but a first aid kit should contain at least 2 pairs. Sterilized
gauze bandages and pads, tweezers, thermometer, scissors, cotton swabs, adhesive tape (to secure bandages) all should be included
in any first aid kit (for our pets & ourselves). Also include an oral feeding syringe, there are different sizes but one that holds 2
teaspoons is good for the kit. Those who give pills often should include a pill gun and pill splitter, pill pockets for easy pilling and/or #3
gel caps in case you need to give multiple medications or something terrible tasting. Insulin syringes if your pet is diabetic or you're
giving B12 injections. Also keep some pepcid a/c regular strength tablets available with the permission of your vet for a kitty with
chronic illness, for nausea and vomiting and when they aren't eating because of an extremely upset tummy.
Jar of Beech Nut baby food, chicken or turkey. Make sure there is NO garlic or onions in them as they are toxic to pets. Also a couple
of cans of tuna in order to entice them to eat if they're feeling ill or nauseas. Not to be fed all the time, but good for those occasions. A
couple of cans of pumpkin (preferably organic). A teaspoon in food helps to regulate either constipation or diarrhea naturally and
soothes the bowels.
Nutrical - not the best ingredients but invaluable when caring for a sick animal or fostering other pets and trying to get them to eat.
This helps greatly in trying to avoid liver damage and making sure they're getting enough calories during illness.
May also want to include some catnip, freeze dried or jerky treats, and a cat toy (fuzzy ball, laser light, etc.). If you are in an
emergency situation, familiar toys or catnip can help calm kitty down and the treats are great for distraction while you bandage him
up. Feliway spray - spray in carriers for calming before vet visit. Also to spray around an area that is being peed on to discourage
that behavior. Rescue remedy - calming before vet visit, kids in house or any other stress.
For an evacuation or 'bug-out' kit make sure to include some of kitty's food, but also make sure to rotate it out so it doesn't expire.
Guidelines suggest having enough canned & dry food and water stored for 3 days. Always keep a list of vet and emergency
numbers/addresses, medication lists and dosages, and copies of other medical records. You should also include a flashlight and an
emergency radio, but also one of those small flash lights as it can be useful for looking at your pet's eyes, ears and in the mouth - but
also if there's a power outage or the cat gets loose outside, etc.
Some own several cat strollers with a detachable carrier so you can transport pets in it and then attach it to the frame and push it.
That way you can squeeze 2-3 kitties in together. You can also have 1 or 2 collapsible cat carriers, that can hold 1-2 cats each.
You can buy a bunch of WonderBox disposable cat pans that can be used as a litter boxes. Also have collars with your pet's names
and phone numbers attached. You do not need to have the collars on your cats if they are indoor only but put the collars on if they go
outside the house and make sure your pets are all microchipped as well.
Are You Ready? Emergency Planning and Checklists - www.fema.gov/areyouready/emergency_planning.shtm.
Disaster Preparedness - www.aspca.org/pet-care/disaster-preparedness/
minutes at room temperature. If your cat is reluctant to eat raw at first, try heating in a skillet at very low heat for a little under a
minute on each side. Just enough to get the scent of meat and the juices going, not to cook it. Eventually you won't have to do this but
it can definitely work when introducing. NEVER use a Teflon skillet or frying pan, it's toxic to animals. Use a stainless steel or
cast iron skillet. If you don't have one initially try microwaving for just 5 seconds to take some of the chill off, try to stick to 5 seconds.
It can be dangerous to microwave raw food, because the bone fragments can splinter and it also changes the nutritional balance. But
anything less than 40 seconds is safe and 5 seconds is usually the magic number. Don't do this for very long, just a few days to get the
cat to start eating it. But heating with a skillet is much safer and keeps the nutrients much better. Warming the food this way
prevents you from actually cooking the food, as the whole purpose of feeding raw is to preserve the precious enzymes that are
missing from over cooked and processed commercial foods.
Tip #4: If you need to defrost some raw food quickly, put it in a Ziploc plastic baggy and fill with warm to hot water. Seal it and lay it
in the sink for approximately 4-5 minutes. Pour out the water and serve!
Tip #5: To help lower phosphorus levels for a cat with renal insufficiency or kidney disease, instead of buying low protein foods, use
cooked egg white! This information is from Dr. Hodgkins' book. Cooked egg white is high in quality protein and contains no phosphate.
What you do is add cooked egg white (from a hard- boiled egg with the yolk removed) to wet cat food by chopping it up and mixing it
into the food. What it does is reduce the amount of wet cat food you feed by adding enough quality protein from the cooked egg white,
which has no phosphorus in it, to make up the difference in quantity, i.e. diluting the phosphorus while still providing the cat with top
quality protein. Vets are starting to go a different way than recommending a lot protein diet as that's not suitable for a carnivore,
they need the protein! This is a good alternative to feeding something other than prescription diets.
Tip #6: A lot of cats won’t eat chunky or shredded food. They love those particular brands yet they only lick up the gravy and leave
the food part. Try using a blender or food processor. Simply put the whole can of food along with the gravy in the processor and it
makes a nice pate. You can also try using any leftover and mix it with a little bit of another brand they like and again blend it or put it
in the food process. This really opens up food options!
Natural Remedies:
Tip #1: When giving slippery elm bark for nausea, take a tablespoon of hot water and mix it with about 1/2 capsule of SEB powder.
As it starts to cool, it will thicken. Sometimes you can add more powder and sometimes more water to get it to a thin enough
consistency that you can fill a syringe. The easiest syringe to use is a 3ml, and fill completely. Then insert the syringe in the back
corner of your cat's mouth and let them drink it down. Just be sure to make it as thick as possible as it helps coat the lining of the GI
tract, similar to Pepto Bismol. They call it a "liquid band aid". Slippery elm should be given at least two hours away from any other
medications or supplements. 30 minutes isn't long enough for the mucilagenous coating in the digestive tract to dilute enough to let
absorption take place, mostly in the intestines. Many holistic vets believe that when given with a meal, it can inhibit the absorption of
nutrients from the food.
Tip #2: For diarrhea or constipation, add a teaspoon of all natural canned pumpkin to your cat's meal. Any canned pumpkin will do
but Farmer's Market Organic is the best one and seems to be the most tasty. Make sure it's the 100% pumpkin and not the pie
filling. It works like magic. Canned pumpkin is only good for 3 days in frig. Place the remainder in ice cube trays and freeze. Then
place them in baggies and defrost as needed or freeze 3 days worth at a time.
Tip #3: During allergy season your kitty can pick up pollen on their fur that makes them more sensitive. They'll sneeze, get stuffy
and not eat as well. A simple solution is to rub them with an electrostatic dust cloth like Swiffer or Pledge, no chemicals on it, it just
collects whatever particles are on their fur so they don't ingest it while grooming. It's easy to do and it just feels like they're being
petted or getting a rub down. You can also use kitty wipes like Allerwipes, which are on the supplements page. They remove pollen
and dander and make your cat's fur soft and fluffy. Any kitty wipe will do, just make sure they are non toxic and have no ingredients
you think would be harmful to an IBD kitty.
Tip #4: When first giving your cat salmon, sardine and/or anchovy oil (or any fish oil), always keep it refrigerated and never let it
get to room temp as it easily turns rancid. As you know, cats are sneaky, finicky, picky, little buggers. So not all of them will like it
unfortunately. Like everything else with them, it has to occasionally be eased into their diet. Try sneaking a really tiny drop in their
food at first and see if they'll eat it. Or put a tiny bit on your finger and then rub it on their paw pads. They absolutely hate anything
on their paws and will have no choice but to lick it up! They may get your floor a little oily in the process though so keep a towel
handy. You can put some on your finger and rub it on their lower lip so they lick it up. Also, try taking a dehydrated or freeze dried
treat and dipping it in the oil first. Keep trying, don't give up. These oils are a great source of Omega 3's and anti-inflammatories.
Tip #5: Use aloe vera for digestive issues instead of pepcid or other antacids. It works great for vomiting or inflammation, but be
careful not to use too much, it can cause diarrhea. Give it either straight in a syringe or mixed with something else like food, works
best if given about 30 minutes before eating. It can be added to their water as it has no taste at all, but make sure it doesn’t deter
them from drinking. If so, give it in the syringe or food. Take one teaspoon of the aloe and dilute it with equal parts water. So 1 tsp.
aloe, 1 tsp water. And mix it. It’s fine to do that about 2-3 times daily but less if there’s not a lot of stomach upset. Or get your vet’s
advice on how much to give. It must be 100% Pure distilled Aloe Vera, nothing else added. You can also put some in a spray bottle
and give their coat a nice, soft, healing glow. Soothing for dry skin and dull fur. Look for George's Aloe Vera from Warran Labs on this
page: http://ibdkitties.net/Antiinflammatories.html.
Tip #6: For UTIs, bladder and other urinary problems, use NOW Foods brand D-Mannose powder. I recommend this brand
because it's 100% pure D-Mannose, vegetarian and no fillers. Using a tiny measuring spoon, measure 1/8th of the powder and use
equal parts water, if not a little bit more. Can be added to food, or syringed into the mouth. This product works because it naturally
helps by sticking to "undesirable" foreign substances, preventing them from sticking to the lining of the bladder. D-Mannose can be
found on this page: http://ibdkitties.net/Antiinflammatories.html. And the measuring spoons I use are Amco Measuring Spoons
which are found on this page: http://ibdkitties.net/Helpfultools.html. There are no measurements on the spoons but someone
figured them out to be: 1/8th, 1/16th, 1/32th and 1/64th.
Medical:
Tip #1: When giving B12 or other injections, if you set them up for the shot by coaxing them down, doing some huggin' and lovin',
"tent" the skin on the back of the neck and plunge. Then immediately stick a favored treat under their nose while rubbing the
injection area to confuse the sensations. They don't really notice, nor dread the shots.
Tip #2: When you have a large prescription bottle of B12 (100 mls) and want to use extra "light-blocking" precautions, take an
empty plastic container of Oxy-Clean powdered laundry additive and put the bottle in there, cover and all, before putting it in the
fridge. It fits perfect and doesn't take up much room. A smaller B12 bottle can be inserted into a regular empty prescription pill bottle.
Tip #3: When giving pills, empty gel caps can be used to mask the taste, combine several medications in one pilling (as long as they
are safe to give together), and remove sharp edges from cut pills. If your local pharmacy doesn't have them, they can be bought
online from capsuline.com, iherb.com, and other retailers. For cats, use size 3,4, or 5. (Size three is the largest.) Simply put the pills
in the capsule and administer (using a pill gun is easiest). Always follow with a water chaser (3-5ml) to ensure the capsule gets into
the stomach and reduce the chance of esophageal irritation.
Tip #4: Instead of giving medications in Pill Pockets, which contain a lot of gluten, use a dehydrated raw food treat like Wholelife
Chicken or turkey. Soak the treat in a little water until it's saturated, insert the medication and make a meatball out of it. This brand
of treats is a big hit with a lot of cats! If you want to use these treats to give pills but they can still smell the pill inside the treat, put a
little bit of non-fat cottage cheese on the outside of the treat after inserting the pill. The cheesy smell will help block the smell of the
medication and your pet will get an extra flavor from the treat!
Tip #5: When pilling your cat, use a pill gun and dip the rubber-tipped end in some low-fat cottage cheese. That way when you pop
the pill in your cat's mouth, it'll be slippery and just fly down his/her throat. Doesn't stick to their tongue and they like the taste.
Tip #6: When giving a 5 mg dose of Prilosec to your cat, take a 20 mg capsule, empty and split it into 4 little piles, putting each little
pile into an empty #3 capsule. Using a dark colored dish for this really helps to see the beads. You can use a small perfume funnel for
this, a link for those are listed on the medications page under supplies. Breaking into a delayed release enteric coated tablet in order
to split it can be dangerous because you aren't giving the same dose each time. This way each little bead in the capsule is enteric
coated so there is no risk of putting too much raw medicine in their tummy at once.
Tip #7: If your kitty is super hard to pill or refuses to eat anything added to their food and they are not eating well at all, your vet
can give them a taurine shot that lasts up to a month. Taurine is a vital nutrient for cats and they cannot do without it. It also helps if
you’re going away somewhere and pet sitters are caring for them, it’s one less thing for them to worry about. If your cat is on the
medication ursodiol, you should supplement with 250-500mg per day due to increased urinary losses of taurine. There's a possibility
that chronic use of Ursodiol in cats may deplete the body of taurine.
Other Useful Tips:
Tip #1: Inappropriate elimination and incontinence is often a big problem in kitties with IBD and other illnesses that are treated
with prolonged steroid use. When all else fails to fix the problem try using kitty diapers that will catch urine but let the cat poop in the
litter box normally. To keep them clean, try taking them to a groomer every other month for a sanitary groom. In between those
grooming sessions, wipe kitty's butt down with a damp wash cloth every time you change their diaper (could be two or three times a
day). Only use diapers that are made of cotton fabric and are completely machine washable. You can also put a half an incontinence
pad in the diaper to absorb the urine.
There are companies that make diapers specifically for pets with these issues, here's an example of one:
www.castlepaws.net/studpants.html. This particular company offers various sizes of diapers, has a sizing chart on her site, as well as
instructions for measuring your kitty to determine what size they are - and they do also special orders. Try doing a google search for
cloth pet diapers or even check places like Ebay for other companies.
Tip #2: A list of kitty household "must haves": These are for emergencies, illness, stress, injuries, etc.
Everyone should have a good set of nail clippers and quick-stop, or another type of styptic powder or gel to stop toenail bleeding.
Several pairs of gloves - preferably non latex - you can have a box handy, but a first aid kit should contain at least 2 pairs. Sterilized
gauze bandages and pads, tweezers, thermometer, scissors, cotton swabs, adhesive tape (to secure bandages) all should be included
in any first aid kit (for our pets & ourselves). Also include an oral feeding syringe, there are different sizes but one that holds 2
teaspoons is good for the kit. Those who give pills often should include a pill gun and pill splitter, pill pockets for easy pilling and/or #3
gel caps in case you need to give multiple medications or something terrible tasting. Insulin syringes if your pet is diabetic or you're
giving B12 injections. Also keep some pepcid a/c regular strength tablets available with the permission of your vet for a kitty with
chronic illness, for nausea and vomiting and when they aren't eating because of an extremely upset tummy.
Jar of Beech Nut baby food, chicken or turkey. Make sure there is NO garlic or onions in them as they are toxic to pets. Also a couple
of cans of tuna in order to entice them to eat if they're feeling ill or nauseas. Not to be fed all the time, but good for those occasions. A
couple of cans of pumpkin (preferably organic). A teaspoon in food helps to regulate either constipation or diarrhea naturally and
soothes the bowels.
Nutrical - not the best ingredients but invaluable when caring for a sick animal or fostering other pets and trying to get them to eat.
This helps greatly in trying to avoid liver damage and making sure they're getting enough calories during illness.
May also want to include some catnip, freeze dried or jerky treats, and a cat toy (fuzzy ball, laser light, etc.). If you are in an
emergency situation, familiar toys or catnip can help calm kitty down and the treats are great for distraction while you bandage him
up. Feliway spray - spray in carriers for calming before vet visit. Also to spray around an area that is being peed on to discourage
that behavior. Rescue remedy - calming before vet visit, kids in house or any other stress.
For an evacuation or 'bug-out' kit make sure to include some of kitty's food, but also make sure to rotate it out so it doesn't expire.
Guidelines suggest having enough canned & dry food and water stored for 3 days. Always keep a list of vet and emergency
numbers/addresses, medication lists and dosages, and copies of other medical records. You should also include a flashlight and an
emergency radio, but also one of those small flash lights as it can be useful for looking at your pet's eyes, ears and in the mouth - but
also if there's a power outage or the cat gets loose outside, etc.
Some own several cat strollers with a detachable carrier so you can transport pets in it and then attach it to the frame and push it.
That way you can squeeze 2-3 kitties in together. You can also have 1 or 2 collapsible cat carriers, that can hold 1-2 cats each.
You can buy a bunch of WonderBox disposable cat pans that can be used as a litter boxes. Also have collars with your pet's names
and phone numbers attached. You do not need to have the collars on your cats if they are indoor only but put the collars on if they go
outside the house and make sure your pets are all microchipped as well.
Are You Ready? Emergency Planning and Checklists - www.fema.gov/areyouready/emergency_planning.shtm.
Disaster Preparedness - www.aspca.org/pet-care/disaster-preparedness/
| Copyright © IBD Kitties 2008-2012, all rights reserved |
| Donations from the Heart for IBD Kitties. Please help us to continue the awareness of diseases that affect our pets and how to control them. It’s fast, easy, and secure! Thanks for all of your support!” |
